I write these words to you on the front porch of my bungalow, waves gently lapping down below. Butterflies as big as birds fly around me, and I stop for a minute to gaze at the crystal clear waters, the sunlight dancing on them, as a boat gently glides past. I now see why when I would tell people on my plane ride here, that I was coming to the Kei Islands, people would stop and say, “Aahhh, the forgotten island.”  This Spice Island feels very forgotten, like the last place on earth, and here I have witnessed extraordinary beauty and gone way beyond my comfort zone to do so.…

Somehow, I seem to be developing a habit when I travel. That is the adventure of being driven to ATM machines on the back of someone’s motor scooter. This trip was no exception as I somehow forgot to do the research and didn’t realize that Amed has no ATM machines. My hotel said that they would accept a credit card, but there would be a 3% charge. The manager said he would be willing to drive me on his scooter to an ATM 5 kilometers away. I admit, I was a little terrified. I’ve seen how people drive their scooters around here. Recklessly, dangerously, passing each other while cars are…