Parma’s Secret Garden Was Planted by a Haircare Lab

When most people think of Parma, they think of cheese. Big golden wheels of it, stacked to the ceiling. And ham, sliced so thin you can almost see through it.

I came for the food too, honestly. But the most surprising thing I found just outside the city was not on a menu. It was a garden, and it was planted by a haircare company.

Yes, really. Let me explain.

Parma is one of those places that quietly takes food very seriously. UNESCO named it a Creative City of Gastronomy in 2015 and describes it as the gastronomic center of Italy’s “Food Valley.” Agri-food and gastronomy make up 30.5% of the local labor force. So it makes sense that a company obsessed with natural ingredients would put down roots here.

A Haircare Lab With a Secret Garden

That company is Davines, a family business founded in Parma back in 1983 by the Bollati family. According to its B Corp profile, it has been a certified B Corporation since 2016 and now sells its haircare and skincare in 89 countries.

Its headquarters, the Davines Village, sits just outside the city. From the road, you would never guess it belongs to a beauty brand. Low buildings blend into the countryside, and the whole thing is wrapped in greenery.

The heart of it is a huge glass greenhouse designed by architect Matteo Thun. Inside are a co-working space, a bistro and a restaurant, all flooded with light. It honestly feels more like a botanical conservatory than an office.

But the part that stole my heart was the scientific garden. It works as an open-air laboratory, full of plants, fruit trees and vegetables. The company’s researchers use it to study the natural ingredients that end up in their formulas. There is even an English-style greenhouse filled with tropical plants. The paths lead you from one planted bed to the next, like a slow and very fragrant guided tour.

Walking through it, I kept reaching out to touch leaves and sniff herbs. It felt like stepping inside a shampoo bottle, in the best possible way.

A quick tip if you want to go. Visits are by reservation, so book ahead through their website rather than just turning up at the gate.

Bringing Parma Home With a Salon Locator

Here is the thing nobody tells you about visiting a place like this. You leave wanting to bring a little piece of it home with you.

For me, that meant my hair. After seeing where all those ingredients come from, I wanted to actually try the products, ideally with someone who knew what they were doing.

So once I was back, I used the Davines salon locator to find a salon nearby that works with their products. You just pop in your zip or postal code, and it shows partner salons on a map or in a list. You can even filter for color services, and there is a separate marker for salons that are sustainable beauty partners.

I booked a treatment and a trim, and it felt like a sweet little epilogue to my Italian trip. Not quite a Parma garden, but definitely a lot more relaxing than my usual rushed haircut.

If you are someone who likes souvenirs you can actually use, this is a fun one. Way better than another fridge magnet.

More Things To Do In Parma

The garden was my surprise highlight, but Parma itself deserves at least a couple of days. Here is how I would spend them.

1. Eat Your Way Through The Food Valley

This is non-negotiable. Order a plate of local cured ham, a chunk of aged Parmesan drizzled with balsamic and a big bowl of fresh pasta. Then do it again the next day.

Look for small family-run trattorias away from the main square. They are often where the best meals happen, and the portions are generous.

2. Visit The Historic Botanic Garden

If the Davines garden gets you hooked on plants like it did me, Parma has an older garden too. The University of Parma’s botanic garden was founded in 1770 by the abbot Gianbattista Guatteri, who was also its first director and professor of botany.

It is a peaceful little escape right in the city. Check opening times before you go, since access can vary.

3. Catch A Show At The Teatro Regio

Parma is serious about opera. The Teatro Regio was inaugurated on 13 May 1829 with a production of Bellini’s Zaira, with Duchess Maria Luigia in attendance.

Even if opera is not usually your thing, seeing a performance in a historic theater like this is something special. Dress up a little. Everyone else will.

4. Take A Day Trip To Colorno

Maria Luigia used the Reggia di Colorno as her holiday residence, and it is often called the small Versailles of Italy. According to the same regional tourism guide, it sits about 16 km from the city center, which makes for an easy half-day trip.

The palace gardens are lovely for a slow afternoon stroll, especially if you are still in plant mode after the Davines Village.

5. Wander The Old Town

Parma is small enough to explore on foot, and the old town is full of yellow palazzos, quiet squares and beautiful churches. Grab a gelato and just wander. Some of my favorite moments were completely unplanned.

How To Get To Parma

Parma is easy to reach by train from bigger cities like Milan and Bologna, which makes it a great stop on a wider Northern Italy trip. Trains run often, and the station is a short walk from the historic center.

If you want to visit the Davines Village or Colorno, renting a car or booking a taxi will make life much easier, since both sit outside the city.

Pack comfortable shoes. Between the garden paths and the cobbled old town, you will be on your feet a lot.

As for when to go, spring and early fall are lovely. The weather is mild, the gardens are at their best and you can comfortably walk everywhere between meals.

Parma surprised me in the best way. I came for the cheese, stayed for the opera and left with a new appreciation for a garden I never expected to find. If you ever go, take the time to slow down, eat well and smell a few herbs along the way.

Photo by Carlo Betta: https://www.pexels.com/photo/marble-sculpture-in-parma-park-39474808/